What to see in Fez: a guide to the UNESCO-listed medina

Morocco's spiritual and cultural capital, Fez is home to one of the largest and best-preserved historic cities in the Arab-Muslim world. Getting lost in its medina is an experience like no other — provided you know where to look. Here is our guide to the must-sees.

The Fez medina, a UNESCO treasure

The medina of Fez has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981, covering 280 hectares, according to the official UNESCO listing. Founded by the Idrisid dynasty between 789 and 808, the city reached its golden age in the 13th and 14th centuries under the Marinids, when it became the capital of the kingdom. UNESCO describes it as one of the most extensive and best-preserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world. Its heart, Fes el-Bali, is often billed as the largest car-free urban area in the world: the figure of some 9,000 alleyways is frequently quoted — a journalistic number, but one that captures the sheer scale of the labyrinth.

Al-Qarawiyyin, the world's oldest working university

At the heart of the medina, the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque-university, founded in 859, is widely regarded as the oldest continuously operating university in the world, as noted in the UNESCO documentation and the history of the Fez medina. While the prayer hall itself is open to Muslims only, you can admire its doorways, courtyard and atmosphere from the surrounding lanes.

The Bou Inania madrasa, a Marinid jewel

Do not miss the Bou Inania madrasa, a 14th-century Quranic school and a masterpiece of Marinid art: zellige (ceramic mosaic), intricately carved cedar wood and chiselled stucco come together in breathtaking harmony. It is one of the very few madrasas with its own minaret, as described in guides to the madrasas of Fez. The nearby Al-Attarine madrasa is well worth a detour too.

The Chouara tannery, the postcard of Fez

This is the city's signature image: the Chouara tannery, the largest and oldest in Fez, with its brightly coloured dye pits where leather is worked using centuries-old methods. You watch from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops (someone will hand you a sprig of mint to counter the smell). An absolute must, described in guides to Fez.

Bab Boujloud, the blue gate

The medina's monumental entrance, Bab Boujloud — "the blue gate" — is decorated with blue zellige on the outside (the colour of Fez) and green on the inside (the colour of Islam), as explained in this introduction to Bab Boujloud. It makes an excellent starting point for exploring the souks.

Craftsmanship, the soul of the city

Fez is one vast open-air workshop: leather (the tanneries), ceramics and zellige (the famous "Fez blue"), brasswork (hammered copper), weaving and calligraphy. UNESCO also recognises, among the city's related intangible heritage, Arabic calligraphy and the art of metal engraving. The souks, organised by guild, are the perfect place to watch artisans at work and bring home an authentic souvenir.

Visiting tips

• Plan on getting lost: it is part of the medina's charm. Note a few major landmarks (Bab Boujloud, Al-Qarawiyyin) and keep an offline map handy.
• Comfortable shoes and water: the lanes climb, drop and go on for miles.
• Mornings are best for the tanneries (light and activity); late afternoon for cooler, softer light.
• Respect places of worship and always ask before photographing people.
• Best season: spring or autumn (see our article When to visit) — summer in Fez is very hot.

Beyond Fez

A car opens up the entire hinterland: Meknes and Volubilis in a day, the cool air of Ifrane and Azrou, or a grand road trip towards the desert and the Rif. Getting started could not be easier: book your car in Fez or at the airport.